1) I recommend starting with the eyes
before the rest of your makeup. Start
with a light dusting of translucent face powder on the eyes.
2) Now,
take the darkest shadow and start on the outside comer of the eye. Apply it
approximately halfway in and halfway up the lid. Stop, take your blending
brush, and blend this area.
3) Go on to your second shade which will be
medium. This color should start at the inside comer of the eye and it should be
applied, again, about halfway up and toward the first color, your darkest one.
You bring it just to where you stopped with your dark color so that they meet.
Then you take your blending brush, starting from the inside corner of the eye
this time, and blend toward the outside.
4) Once
you have that done on both eyes, take the highlighter, the lightest shade, and
apply from the inside corner of the eyebrow, right under the eyebrow, all the
way to the outside comer of the brow. It's like an arch. You want to lift the
eye; open it up. Don't bring the highlighter down too far, because you will
overlap the outside comer where you applied the dark shadow. You want a
definite contrast. Again, that opens the eye up.
5) Next step: liquid eye liner applied to
the top lid.
6) On the lower lid we will use a pencil so
that we can smudge it with a Q-tip and give it a very soft look. Now to do this
we start at the outside corner and you bring your eyeliner brush right at the
very base of the eyelashes. There is a little indentation at the base of the
eyelashes and if you actually let your brush rest on the eyelashes you can just
slide this across very carefully, from the outside corner to the inside corner.
You want the line to be thicker on the outside of the eye, this gives an
illusion of lifting the eye and giving it more of an almond shape to the eye.
7) Once
you have liner your eyes, apply your mascara. The best way to do this is to
stand in front of a mirror, hold you head up and look down. This way you can
use your mascara brush and get the top of the eyelashes and get the bottom
eyelashes.
8) I recommend waiting to apply the pencil liner to the lower lashes
after you get your foundation on and your undereye sealer for shadows and
circles. The same thing applies with mascara. So for the best results, wait to
do the mascara and pencil eyeliner until after you have completed the undereye
concealer and the foundation. 9) Use enough of the concealer that will give you the effect that it's created to do. So many people, when they come in for a make-over, are amazed at how much of the under-eye concealer.
Once you have the concealer under both eyes, take a sponge and, very gently, dab at the product. This is called stippling and will blend the product without actually removing it or causing the skin to be stretched.
10) Now you will put on your beard cover. Use this product very generously. Some of the gals use a minimal amount of this and there is always a shadow coming through.
11) When this is completed then you go on to the next step which is foundation. I make things easy when I do a make-over. I use a light and a dark foundation. This gives excellent coverage and it isn't greasy. Oil doesn't come to the surface so you won't look greasy.
12) So what you do is stand in front of your mirror and hold your hands in front of your face and create an oval. The oval that you want to create is primarily under the lips, nose and eyes. This is the area we want to project, so this is where we want to create this oval. We'll use a lighter foundation on anything inside this oval because light gives the illusion of coming forward.
11) We use the dark foundation on anything outside of the oval because it will camouflage and recede. So you'll be taking off a square masculine jaw line on a square face. If you have a long face you can put a little dark foundation on the chin area and on the forehead and this will help to create an illusion of a smaller face.
12) Once you have your oval completed with the lighter foundation, go back and take your dark foundation using that same dot method. Start on the outside of the oval, just at the bottom side of the ear and come down to the chin. You make it wider at the top near the ear, approximately 11/2 - 2 inches wide. It will narrow down to maybe 1/2 inch near the chin depending on the width of the face and how much you want to take off.
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